Water crossings, oh my!
This 35 mile loop hike is not overly strenuous but there are 85 thigh deep water crossings in swift moving water. The water crossings are not real difficult but care must be taken and 2 hiking poles (for extra stability) is recommended. Day and night time temperatures are just about perfect for hiking and sleeping and bugs are at a minimum.
May 23, 2010 – (6 miles hiked) Our loop hike started from the ranger station near the base of the Gila Cliff Dwellings on the West Fork Trail (151) which follows the West Fork of the Gila River. A volunteer told us that we could avoid two river crossings by taking a social trail and we did so. The trail was difficult and probably not worth the effort as we ended up doing 22 river crossings before the day was done so 2 more would not have been a big deal. The river crossings were more challenging than we had envisioned. Of course, the ranger had told me there were numerous crossings, up to mid-thigh depth. So… in my mind that meant that most of the crossings were going to be rock hopping or ankle depth and there would be a few deep crossings. It was actually the opposite. We hiked most of the first day and ½ of the second day in our water shoes – most of which were not appropriate or sturdy enough. One plus while walking along a river is little to no elevation change. We camped the first night along the river somewhat short of the half way point. There were several nice camp sites and Joe was able to have a fire because we pitched our 3 tents far enough away to not have sparks from the fire burn holes in them (experience taught us this lesson). We are in the habit of carrying wine on our trips (in bladders designed for that purpose). We bring one bottle per night so on this trip we had four bottles. The first bottle we chilled in the river to a perfect temperature. The wine would have gone well with Gouda cheese, however, I left the cheese, apples, jerky, a sub sandwich and fresh veggies in the hotel room refrigerator! Damn. We didn’t stop at one bottle and finished a second one (we reasoned it was less weight to carry the next day!)
May 24, 2010 – (9.5 miles hiked) We woke up this morning to 35 degree temperatures – really cold for walking in and out of water. None the less we got on the trail around 8am, all wearing shorts, long sleeve shirts, and fleece. There were 33 water crossings total today, all before 1pm. Unfortunately, before we completed the water crossings Lori’s sandal came apart. There is a picture of the duct tape repairs we had to make so she could continue the hike. At 1pm we reached Hell’s Hole Trail (268) where we stopped, put on our boots (glad to get out of wet socks and sandals), and loaded up with water since we were not sure if there would be water at our camp for the night. Then we headed up hill for a 1000 foot assent. We blew right through Hell’s Hole with out even noticing it and took Lilly Park Trail (164) towards our goal for the night – Prior Cabin. We were walking along Prior Creek which had no water for the longest time and towards 5 pm we finally spotted water in the creek. We were all pretty beat by this time and wanted to camp with water so we choose a flat spot close to Prior Creek to set up camp. Again we cooled the wine in the creek but only drank one bottle. We learned the next day that Prior Creek continued to get larger and Prior Cabin was only about ¼ mile further up the trail where there was plenty of flat spots and a nice fire ring. Oh well… we enjoyed our spot none the less.
May 25, 2010 – 12 miles hiked
May 25, 2010 – (12 miles hiked)It was 28 degrees when we got up but it warmed up quickly and pretty soon we were all sweating after hitting the trail. Shortly after starting we hit Prior Creek Trail (156) and headed east. The terrain was mainly flat with some minor ups and downs so we made very good time. We had lunch at the junction of Prior Creek Trail (156) and Big Bear Canyon Trail (28) and having done most of the planned mileage for the day we decided to change our goal and get all the way to the Middle Fork River. Shortly before hitting Little Bear Canyon Trail (729) we ran into some Adventure Scouts (4 scouts and 3 adult leaders) that were using a GPS for guidance and hiking up hill looking for the Middle Fork. Much to their dismay, when we showed them the map they realized they had missed a turn and had hiked up hill an extra mile. Our lesson – a GPS is good at telling you where you are but you need a map to determine if you are heading in the right direction. We continued the generally down hill trail until we headed north on Little Bear Canyon Trail (729). At the junction of the trail and the Middle Fork River there were numerous, flat, spacious camp sites and no one there so we picked the best one.
May 26, 2010 – (4 miles hiked) Today was an easy day as we only planned to hike to Jordan Hot Springs along the Middle Fork Trail (157) which is only 2 miles one way from our campsite. There are a total of 15 waters crossings (one way) so we decided to wait until 10 am to start the trip. The hot spring is absolutely fantastic and relaxing. The description of its location from the guide book made it sound as though we would have to search for the hot springs. Nothing could be further from the truth. Only a blind man with a horrible sense of direction could have missed the “hot tubs” that have been created out of the hot spring. We spent over an hour soaking up the 90+ degree water. The temperature was just right for prolonged soaking. When we arrived there was on guy, totally naked, in the hot spring. Ed told him we had a lady with us and all he did was look at Ed and said nothing. We all got in (with shorts or bathing suits) and shortly thereafter two ladies who had ridden up on horse back joined us. There were 8 in the “hot tub” with room for 8 more.
May 27, 2010 – (4 miles hiked) Our final day in the back country. We returned to the trail head via the Little Bear Canyon Trail (729). After an initial up hill section from the river the trail was generally down hill with nothing remarkable. Even walking slowly we were at the cars by 10 am after which we went to Doc’s Trading Post for lunch and soda while waiting for the 1 pm Gila Cliff Dwelling guided tour. The tour is well worth the wait and the story of the cliff dwelling people is amazing. Included are pictures of the cliff dwellings from a distance, up close, and looking outward.